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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.